Having arrived in Ho Chi Minh City on a red eye flight, we needed a strong dose of caffeine to get going.

As it turns out, Vietnamese have just the thing. And it’s ubiquitous.

Vietnamese brown (milk) iced coffee

It’s called ca phe sua da, a rich, dense iced coffee layered over condensed milk. The deceptively smooth roast is packed with a punch. Add to that an intense sweetness and depth of flavor, and you have the perfect jumpstart to the day.

Vietnam is the second largest producer of coffee, after Brazil. The coffee is grown in the lush central highlands. It is prepared simply, using a basic filter placed over individual cups. The coffee drips gently into a generous portion of condensed milk. The brew is then stirred and poured over ice.

The coffee is prepared through a simple filter

Vietnamese savor the beverage over an hour or more, allowing the ice to melt and slowly dilute the strength. They drink this potion throughout the day. Even when they are weaving their motorbikes and scooters through the congested city streets, they would take a little sip, and you can see little plastic bags with straws sticking out dangling from bike handles.

For me, however, one such ca phe per day was enough. But without fail, I succumbed to the temptation of another in the afternoon, and was kept up half the night with eyes wide open.

It’s indeed very strong … and addictive.