Saffron Butterfly

Koreans form the largest expat community in Dhaka, making for very good Korean restaurants in town. The top two are Arirang and Sura, both in Gulshan. Recently I tried out both back to back, which allowed me to compare the two restaurants with ease. I was not responsible for ordering on either occasion, but funnily very similar dishes were presented both times, making my task of comparing even easier.

Arirang was the first to be occasioned. I have to admit that I went with a friend who is well known to both the owner and the wait staff at Arirang. We got special attention as a result, which might have resulted in better food.

My friend ordered for us. We got BBQ Chicken, BBQ cuttle fish and glass noodles. A standard set of five kimchis, my favorite part of Korean meals, came swiftly. We waited for the main dish while nibbling on the classic pickled cabbage with chili paste, sauteed greens with sesame seeds, bean sprouts, potatoes in a creamy mayonnaise, and pickled cucumber.

I was catching up with my friend after many months, making us concentrate more on the conversation than the food. Still, I was able to savor every mouthful, the various tastes and textures that makes Korean food unique.

The BBQ chicken and cuttle fish were prepared in a sweetened chili sauce on the grill at the table. The sizzling aromas that emanated were mouthwatering. The distinct firm-yet-soft texture of the cuttle fish, and it’s subtle flavor, made me keep going back for more. Eaten with a side of steamed rice, the BBQ chicken was also very flavorsome and quite distinguishable from the BBQ cuttle fish in it’s moist richness. The light gelatinous glass noodles with woody, chewy mushrooms made their presence felt in every morsel: bursts of flavor with plenty of bite.

The meal was completed with a palate-cleansing cinnamon drink which is very sugary and can only be gently sipped.

At Sura, we had additional appetizers such as shrimp tempura, which was more crumbed fried than prepared in tempura batter. For the mains, we had Beef Bulgogi instead of cuttle fish. We also had a chicken dish, which I found somewhat indistinguishable from the beef, in both texture and taste. But the glass noodles was as tasty as that of Arirang.

Overall, the experience at Arirang was better, but I cannot say whether it was due to the extra care and attention we got there, including complimentary dishes and wrapped gifts at the end, all thanks to my friend.

Let me start by saying that I love Thai food. Along with Vietnamese food, it ranks as one of my favorite cuisines. What I like in both are the fresh herbs and spices, and the clincher: fish sauce.

Soi 71 opened about a year ago on Road 71 Gulshan in Dhaka. It is in my opinion the best Thai restaurant in town. I was told by the management that the fresh herbs and spices are brought from Bangkok regularly; so the more recent the shipment, the better the food. They also have two Thai chefs.

By now I’ve eaten five or six times at Soi 71–and always, the spices tasted fresh, newly arrived. So either I’ve been very lucky with my timing, or the food is simply very good.

One favorite that Jalal and I try from every Thai menu is Gai Pad Kra Pao: minced chicken with hot basil and chili.  It’s a yardstick we use to gauge the quality of the restaurant. And I find the one at Soi 71 absolutely delicious. Outside of Bangkok, I have tried this dish from New York City to Boston to San Diego to Paris, and I think Soi 71 has the most authentic preparation. It’s all in the krapao basil.

Chicken Pad Kra Pao at Soi71

In many restaurants, you have the choice of getting the meat either minced or sliced. I like it minced, allowing the sweet chili basil sauce to smother every morsel of  chicken. At Soi 71, the dish contains cut green beans, which gives a nice crunchy contrast to the soft moist meat. And with the peppery basil tones, the fiery heat of the chilis, and the oh-so-addictive fish sauce, this dish is one of my all time favorites.

One staple that I have never tried in Thailand is Pad Thai. I’ve only eaten the syrupy sweet dense version in the West. In contrast, Soi 71 has a light and fresh Pad Thai, which follows very well after the hot hot Pad Kra Pao.

I tried the Chili Garlic Prawns a couple of times. Unlike most other dishes at Soi 71, this dish was a bit inconsistent. The first time we were presented with a richly flavorful dish, a garlicky delight. Another time, a garnish of too much fresh coriander made it taste more “desi” than Thai.

Over our several visits, we have sampled other dishes, including Tod Mun, another Thai staple for us. These spongy fish cakes were spiced just right, with a wonderful tang of lemongrass. For the brave, the Beef Green Curry with Thai eggplant is highly recommended. It’s deceptively hot, and the undertones of green chili sizzle on the tongue long after the mouthful has been consumed. Delectable.

Now someone please pass me the Pad Thai to douse out the fire. And if that does not do the trick, one of their many fresh juices surely will!